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7 Style Tips For Shorter Men

Posted by Rishi Chullani on

Kathryn Fassett

Our idealized body type for a man is tall and athletic. For this reason, many short men desire to appear taller but aren't sure how to choose clothes that accomplish that goal. Shorter men have the challenge of selecting clothes that elongate their form, drawing the beholder's eyes vertically along their frame. You may find that tips for short men get bundled into fashion advice for wide men. Although there are plenty of short petite men, the basic concept of drawing the eye up and down rather than across the widest part of you is the same for both short and wide men, doubly true for men who are both. These style tips will give you an understanding of what pieces to reach for to look taller and well put together.

Fit

If there is one piece of advice universal to everyone, no matter your body shape, it's to wear clothes tailored to fit your body. There's no exception for short guys. The most important tool in your arsenal is your trusted tailor. Off the rack clothes will likely be too long in the trouser pants, jacket sleeve, and dress shirt length. Your shirt should not extend past your hip bones. Your sleeves should not extend past where your fingers meet your palm and you should watch for bunching in your sleeve, a sure sign of poor fit. If you constantly find that off the rack clothing needs significant tailoring, you should consider investing in bespoke items designed for your physique and sewn to your exact measurements.

Bespoke Suit Shorter Men

Courtesy of www.themodestman.com

Draw the Line

Second only to fit, dressing to your body types means intentionally drawing the viewer's eye in a flattering way across your body. For shorter men, this means vertically. Chunky, flashy accessories like a watch or loud tie clip are a bad choice for short men because they segment your silhouette and emphasize your height. Simple, chic accessories are a better choice.

Solid colors or a monochromatic theme are also a safe bet for a shorter man. When arranging a monochromatic outfit, keep the lightest shades towards the top and darker shades to the bottom. For example, a light blue dress shirt, dark blue slacks, and navy shoes.

Likewise, short men should be cautious in selecting patterns. A plaid or checkered pattern that moves in both vertical and horizontal lines will emphasize your squareness rather than your height. Low-key, vertically-aligned patterns will always make a short man look taller. While some bolder options can still be very flattering on a shorter man, you will get a much stronger lengthening effect with simpler ones.

Shorter Men Suits

Courtesy of www.articlesofstyle.com

Proportion

Proportion needs to be taking into consideration when selecting items to add to your wardrobe and when mixing individual items together. A large, broad-shouldered man looks silly when he dons a skinny tie and a delicate watch. That juxtaposition of sizes is the same reason that a shorter guy looks clownish with oversized accessories or bold, large patterns. In general, chose shapes and sizes that match your own relative shape and size. When mixing pieces together, make sure no one item is overpowering any others.

To view The Dark Knot's range of exquisite Skinny Silk Ties, which are perfect for shorter, slimmer men, please click here.


Shorter Men Suits

Courtesy of www.gq.com

Fabrics

You could choose to add pattern and texture by reaching for vertically-oriented fabric as well, like corduroy or herringbone. Fabrics that add bulk around your midsection, like corduroy, should be avoided if you want to minimize your width (such as in the case of a larger man) but can be striking and very flattering on a short and petite man.

Avoid Short Sleeves

Height comes from length in your limbs as well as your torso. This is why two men sitting on barstools might appear to be the same height until they stand up and demonstrate the difference in the length of their limbs. Wearing a short sleeve shirt emphasizes how short your arms are by breaking them up visually, and even makes them seem much shorter than they actually are. A long sleeve shirt, then, has the opposite effect and draws that sharp line from shoulder to wrist. If you are attending an event and you are worried a long sleeve shirt will be too warm, opt for light and breathable cotton or linen.

Befriend the Blazer

Short men look taller wearing a suit jacket or blazer. As I mentioned above, a long sleeve elongates a short man, but blazers and jackets have the additional benefit of padding on the shoulder, making your torso appear longer as well. Just the added bulk of the fabric should do the trick, but extra padding in the shoulder can make this effect even more pronounced.

Shorter Men Blazer

Courtesy of www.gentlemanwithin.com

 

Cuffs and Breaks

A short man can opt to have a slightly shorter break where the trouser pants meet the shoes. This elongates the frame because it's more in proportion to the rest of the pant leg. A taller man would look better with a wider cuff to match the proportion of his long legs.

Summary

Dressing to your body type can be a real challenge for lots of men, but luckily it's just a place to start. Learning the basics of how to draw a line across your body and how to choose proportional accessories will give you the ability to dress any body type. Once you have grasped these concepts, you can begin to play with riskier choices to find combinations you've never considered before. Keeping these tips in mind while buying your clothes, as opposed to when trying to get dressed for the day, will go a long way to making sure you always look your best. A well-dressed man should prepare his wardrobe with care and select pieces that he will be able to mix and match with other articles of clothes he already owns.

And that's a wrap for this one! I hope that you have enjoyed reading it as much as I did writing it!

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Bespoke Suit Guide | The Ultimate Guide To Buying A Bespoke Suit

Posted by Rishi Chullani on

Kathryn Fassett

A well-made suit has been the pinnacle of men’s fashion, dating back in some form or another to the 16th century. Men wore mantles or long-flowing cloaks with elaborate designs, particularly for royalty and the upper class. The doublet, or an undershirt worn under armor, was one of the first articles of clothing designed to change a man’s shape. The art of tailoring was born in designing the first pieces and rich men had all their clothes made for them by skilled and innovative tailors.

In 1565, Charles IX of France outlawed purses in a legislative move reminiscent of today’s conceal and carry laws. Men would hide daggers in their purse, so outlawing the accessory helped bring down the crime rate. With that, the pocket was born.

It wasn’t until 1820 when the fashion world was completely revolutionized with one simple invention: the tape measure. A tape measure allowed tailors to create general sizing. A standard set of sizes meant that for the first time a tailor could make articles of clothing before knowing the customer’s measurements. Customers entering the shop could find the clothes that fit them and purchase them off the rack, with only slight alterations needed. Clothes and suits could be produced in bulk, which significantly brought down the cost. Fashion as we know it was born.

Bespoke, Off the Rack, Made To Measure

Today, when a man buys a suit he selects one of three options: bespoke, made to measure, or off the rack.

  • Bespoke- Bespoke suits are the most expensive, ranging from $2800 to $4800. This is because every aspect of the suit, from the fabric to the buttons, from the shape and cut to the contrast stitching, is designed to the client’s specifications and measurements. The piece is cut and stitched by hand.
  • Made To Measure- A made to measure suit ranges from $800 to $1800. These suits are built partially in advance, but the client is able to make a few key decisions about the suit before it is sewn to his measurements. Some extra tailoring may be required after the piece is finished, but this is usually included in the price.
  • Off the Rack- An off the rack suit is priced from $200 to $1000. Buying a suit off the rack means that you must find a good tailor to alter the fit. This is usually a separate expense. Off the rack suits can still be very nice, but they are not handmade and the customer has little to no control over the details of the suit.

Choosing the Right Tailor

There are a few key things to look for when you shop for a tailor. A bespoke tailor cares deeply about their product and will likely have a specialization. When you make an appointment with your tailor, he will be interested in what styles and designs you are drawn to and won’t rush you through a meeting. Remember that you get what you pay for: tailor with more experience will command higher prices.

Your tailor will take a lot of measurements in order to design a suit exactly to your body:

  • Neck
  • Right and left sleeves
  • Waist
  • Front and back chest
  • Full chest
  • Bicep
  • Hips/seat
  • Half shoulder
  • Full shoulder
  • Wrist
  • Front jacket
  • Trouser waist
  • Outseam
  • Inseam
  • Crotch
  • Thigh
  • Knee

Suit Styles

Cut

One of the first things you will need to choose when you have a bespoke suit designed is the cut. Each style works to shape a man in a different way, accentuating or hiding different parts of the body to shape the silhouette.

American

The American suit has a boxy shape with little definition that was made popular by the Brooks Brothers in the early 20th century. This style features one center vent and no shoulder pads. The end result is a rather shapeless silhouette.

American Cut Suit

Saville Row

A Saville Row is a style that comes from England and does a lot more to accentuate a man’s shape. This style also features higher arms, carved shoulders and double vents.

English Cut Suit

Italian

The Italian suit closely fits a man and is designed for someone who wants to show off their physique. This style features a suppressed waist, no vents, and padded shoulders.

Italian Cut Suit

Athletic

A newer style, the Athletic suit is designed for a man with a developed upper body who needs more room in the jacket without a proportionally larger trouser size.

Buttons

Single or Double Breast

A single breast suit has two or three buttons while a double breast suit has four to six buttons. Deciding between the two will alter your figure, but beyond a silhouette, a single breast suit is more casual and a double breast suit is considered dressier. One other big difference between the two is what to do with them while sitting; a single breast suit should always be unbuttoned while sitting and a double breast suit should remain buttoned.

 Single vs Double Breasted RealMenRealStyle

Courtesy of www.realmenrealstyle.com

Jacket Sleeve Buttons

Many jackets have buttons on the two to six buttons on the sleeve. Off the rack suits feature these buttons as purely decoration, but they can function on a bespoke suit. Functioning jacket sleeve buttons gives you the ability to roll up your sleeves without removing your jacket. These little details are what makes bespoke suits so special. The buttons should “kiss,” or touch slightly.

Courtesy of www.desmerrion.com

Buttonholes

Buttonholes come in three main shapes: bar-tacked, rounded-end, and keyhole. A bar-tacked is a casual, quick rectangle. A rounded end is oval shaped and easier to accomplish with hand sewing than a bar-tacked. A keyhole shape is a rectangle with a small circle at one end to insert the button. More than one buttonhole type on a garment is a mark of quality. Uneven or slightly imperfect stitching mark work done by hand, so this is one time where imperfect work actually denotes something of higher quality.

 Buttonholes Bespoke Suit

Courtesy of www.pinterest.com

Pockets

Since their humble origins hundreds of years ago, pockets have developed into a wide range of styles. Some pockets are designed for a certain function while others are purely decorative. Pockets affect the silhouette of the suit, so different pocket styles can be more appropriate for certain body types.

  • Bellows- Accordion-style pleated pockets.
  • Piped- The fabric is folded at the opening to emphasize the pocket.
  • Flapped Besom- This is a pocket with a flap that can be tucked away.
  • Chest- The pocket found exclusively on the left breast.
  • Flap- A pocket with a flap.
  • Hacking- A pocket cut at an angle.
  • Patch- Seams show on this pocket, giving it a patch appearance.
  • Slant- This is an angled besom pocket.
  • Ticket- A small pocket the size of a ticket on the right side.

Suit Pockets

Courtesy of www.naturalgentleman.com

Vents

Vents are small flaps in the garment that provide the wearer with increased comfort and greater flexibility. Vents also help keep the fabric from bunching and creasing and allows more air flow. Jackets will have one or two vents, usually either in the center or to either side. Choosing a jacket with one vent will give you a more tapered look while a double vented jacket will accentuate your build.

Lapels

Lapels form the collar of the jacket, and are most commonly notched. A notched lapel has a V cut into the either side. Lapels can also be peaked, or point to the shoulder. Peaked lapels are more common on double breasted suits.

The Perfect Fit

No matter what body type you have, a well-fitting suit will make you look better. Here are the main points to look for in the perfect fit:

Jacket

Your jacket should fit smoothly with no creasing or bumping in the back. The jacket should follow and flatter the natural curve of shoulders. If your jacket has horizontal or diagonal creases or bumps, it is too tight. If your jacket has vertical creases or bumps, it’s too loose. If your belly button is exposed, the jacket is too tight.

The collar of your jacket should lay flat without pressing on your dress shirt. One half inch of collar should be exposed. When you put your hands to your sides, the hem of the jacket should be in the middle of your palm. Any vents should hang perpendicular to the floor and not appear to be pulled in one direction or another. Pockets should lie flat. 

Jacket Fit

Courtesy of www.hespokestyle.com

Dress Shirt

The collar of your dress should not press against your neck but should touch skin. An easy test is to insert two fingers between your collar and neck, which should be easy and comfortable. You should not be able to insert three fingers. 

The shoulders of your shirt should correspond to your body and the shirt should tuck in neatly without excess fabric bulging. For fit at the wrist, you should be able to remove the shirt without unbuttoning the cuffs.

 Well Fitted Dress Shirt

Courtesy of bedapper.blogspot.com

Body Types

Heavy

Heavier men should choose pleated pants and a three button jacket, which adds height. Avoid spread collars, wide lapels, and wide tie knots. Heavier men should stick to regular point collars and proportional accessories. Vented suits are a must for comfort and flexibility.

Thin

A thin man should opt for a single-breast, two or three button jacket with padded shoulders, wide lapels and vents. Vests with more detail such as a flapped pocket will add more width, while patterns like plaids and stripes will also make you look bigger. Beware adding height with vertical stripes!

Tall

Taller men should reach for a two or three button, single breasted jacket. Looser, straighter fitting jackets with squared shoulders will make height seem more proportional. A wider cuff on pant legs will help your body seem proportional as well.

Short

Short men can appear taller with a two or three button, single breasted jacket with side or center vents, and patterns like vertical pinstripes, herringbone, and chalk stripes. A medium trouser break or narrower cuff will also make a short man look more proportional. 

Suit Patterns

Beyond solid color suits, there are a wide variety of classic patterns that all adapt well to certain situations, seasons, and fabrics. Every well-dressed man should know how to pair each of the these five patterns: pinstripe, brown, plaid, linen, and seer sucker.

Pinstripe

Pinstripe suits have a lightness about them that makes the wearer look sophisticated but relaxed. The proportion of the stripe to the space in between the stripes is something to play with to match your build and the rest of the patterns in your outfit. Navy or chalk gray pinstripes match a lot of other different colors and patterns, while more colorful stripe colors can give you a  pop of color.

Pinstripe Suits

Courtesy of www.gentlemansjournal.com

Brown

Brown suits can be adapted for the season by choosing a lighter or darker shade. Brown works very well with blue and green hues, but it’s surprisingly easy to match brown with just about any color. Many men shy away from brown because they fear they will look dated, but the secret lies in a fresh and crisp color combination. It’s important that your shoes are always a slightly darker brown than your trousers.

Brown Suits Bespoke

Courtesy of www.pinterest.com

Plaid

Plaid suits work best in fall and winter, but can easily be adapted year round. Plaid is very multipurpose and can be used at a wide variety of events, including more casual ones. Beginners to plaid should start by matching solid colored accessories and a dress shirt. With a little practice, it’s easy to match plaid to other patterns (including other plaids). When designing a color pattern, draw out the minor colors in the plaid for a cohesive color scheme.

Bespoke Plaid Suit

Courtesy of www.pinterest.com

Linen

Linen suits are the best item to reach for in the heat of the summertime. Because linen suits crinkle easily, they are not ideal for work situations or anytime you’ll need to look crisp after sitting for a period of time. Light colors like cream and khaki are classic for linen, although there are many more options available.

Linen Suit

Seersucker

Seersucker is a fabric made of stripes of smooth cotton sewed to stripes of puckered cotton. Traditionally, seersucker is blue and white although you can find just about anything you’d like. Seersucker is similar to linen in that it will wrinkle easily. Seersucker provides an overall classy look with a laid back flair.

Seersucker Suit

Courtesy of www.pinterest.com

Seasons

Summer

The main challenge of wearing a suit in the summer time is selecting one that won’t keep you too hot, which can lead to over sweating and body odor. Cotton is the perfect summertime fabric because it is porous, light, and breathable. Open weave cotton will look see-through when you hold it up to a light. Summer colors are pastels, creams, and beige.

Seersucker and linen are increasingly popular, especially for a dress shirt. Although you’ll have to have forethought and be careful not to crease these fabrics too much, they can help you stay much cooler in the summer heat. Any muted, light tone will work such as light blue, light gray, light pinstripes, khaki, or even a mild plaid.

Summer Khaki Suit

Courtesy of www.hespokestyle.com

Fall

In fall, the inconsistent weather can make it difficult to dress appropriately. Dressing in layers not only helps solve that problem, but it also makes you look very dapper! Jackets, blazers, and fabrics like tweed add textural variation and make your outfit look more interesting. Woolen and knitted pocket squares and ties are also a great way to add texture, even if they don’t add much protection against the elements. Fall is a great time for rich colors like olive green, burgundy, and mustard.

Vests are another great layering solution, although it’s important to make sure that you don’t show any dress shirt between your waist and your belt. A fitted shirt will help you avoid bunching under your vest. Instead of a vest, a cardigan is also a smart fall look, although more casual.

 Tweed Jacket

Courtesy of www.tweed-heaven.com

Winter

In winter, you’ll need to bundle up against the cold weather but still be able to dress down to a comfortable office temperature. Winter dress coats are a must, such as a pea coat which can cover your suit, keep you warm, and look great with a scarf. Dress in layers for additional weather protection.

Winter Coat

Courtesy of www.pinterest.com

Accessorizing

Color Theory

Color theory is an important part of matching pieces together, creating outfits, and choosing accessories. We could teach an entire liberal arts class on color theory, but a simple introduction will suffice for our needs. First and foremost, you should print a high-quality image of a color wheel and place it near your accessories, in your closet, bedroom, or bathroom mirror. You will reference it often while learning to mix and match pieces.

Color Wheel

Courtesy of www.pinterest.com

The color wheel allows us to harmonize colors along certain themes. The color themes are time-honored and proven to help you look good, so you should always make sure that your color scheme matches one theory listed below.

  • Contrasting - Contrasting colors are directly across from each other on the color wheel: red and green, blue and orange, purple and yellow.
  • Triadic Colors - Triadic colors split the color wheel into thirds (blue, red, yellow or green, orange, purple). This doesn’t necessarily mean that you have to use all three colors, because as we know, blue and red look good together and so do blue and yellow. With triadic color, you want to let one color dominate and the others play minor supporting roles.
  • Monochromatic- Monochromatic choices focus one color only and use different tones and shades to create interest and contrast (a navy blazer with a light blue shirt and a striped blue tie).

Matching Tie Patterns and Pocket Squares - Color and Scale

Matching ties and pocket squares to each other and the other parts of your suit can be a bit complicated until you have some time to practice. Now that you understand a bit about how to match colors, let’s talk about patterns.

Patterns don’t have to be different from one another in order to match. In order to avoid looking overwhelmingly patterned, vary the patterns by size or proportion. One example of this would be a wider, bigger plaid with a smaller, tighter plaid. Another example would be a big, spaced out polka dot pattern against a tighter, smaller-dot pattern. Alternating patterns is an easy way to avoid this, such as matching a checked shirt with a striped tie. When in doubt, completely different patterns such as floral and stripes will work together.

Beginners can start by matching patterns to solid colors, such as a solid color dress shirt with a patterned tie. Don’t match solid on solid if neither has a pattern or a remarkable texture. Patterns are a great way to introduce variety and express a more nuanced style.

Tonal considerations are also important- the way the colors interact with one another. High tonal pieces have more color contrast within them while lower tonal pieces are more muted.

Balancing tonal considerations can add another dimension to a tie and pocket square combination.

Pocket squares should complement but never match your dress shirt and tie. In the 1920s, pocket squares were always nearly identical to the tie. Today, that looks dated and boring. Varying fabrics, textures, colors, and patterns all make your choices more interesting and dynamic.

Folding your pocket square can also change your silhouette and create drama. There are a lot of different pocket square folds for experienced dapper gentlemen to try, but the three main folds to know are the square fold, the puff fold, and the edged puff.

To view our exquisite range of silk ties, where you can filter your search based on matching suits, matching shirts and even the type of occasion that you are dressing up for, please click here!

To view our beautiful range of silk and linen pocket squares, where you can filter your search based on matching tie and shirt colors, please click here!

Suit Tie Pocket Square Accessorizing

Courtesy of www.pinterest.com

Matching Socks and Shoes

Although many men get stumped by which shoes to wear with their ensembles, there is actually a fairly standard rule to follow. Socks should always be the same shade or darker than trousers, such as dark gray socks with light gray trousers. One particular case that needs to be considered is when you choose brown trousers: your shoes should be darker than your trousers, and your socks should be darker than your shoes (the darkest of three shades of brown). All men need two pairs of dress shoes: one brown and one black pair. Although you can experiment with other colors and styles of dress shoes, these two classic pairs will match with every outfit you can create.

Matching socks to shoes

Courtesy of www.fashionbeans.com

Bespoke Suit

It may seem like a lot to process for a beginner, but with a little practice, any man can look like a million bucks in a bespoke suit. When you begin to feel overwhelmed, go back to the basics and avoid taking risks. Once you’ve mastered the basics, expand and experiment with a limitless number of combinations of texture, color, patterns, and fabric.

I hope that you have enjoyed reading this as much as I did writing it!

If you would like an even more in-depth understanding of bespoke suits, please feel free to check out our E-Book: How To Create The Perfect Bespoke Suit!

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7 Style Tips for Thin & Skinny Men

Posted by Rishi Chullani on

Kathryn Fassett

Thin men face a different set of challenges when it comes to finding a show-stopping look for a night out or a day with clients. Being thin is commonly paired to being tall when it comes to style tips, partly because some of the tips to accentuate these body types are the same and partly because making anybody look shorter is going to make them look wider. A tall and / or thin man will have trouble finding clothing off the rack that fit his shape appropriately.

Despite the difficulties tall and thin men face, it’s important to remember that many male models rock this body type and come up with some really inspiring fashion choices. Following these tips to maximize your assets can help you look your best. With that said, here is our guide to style tips for thin & skinny men.

1. Wear Clothes That Fit You

No matter who you are or what your body looks like, this piece of universal advice will always remain true for a timelessly well-dressed look: wear clothes that fit you. If you remember my previous post about style tips for larger men, this was the first piece of advice I gave there as well. The single most important thing you can do for your wardrobe today is find a good tailor and see him regularly.

For thin men specifically, clothing that is too big or too baggy will make you look even smaller and gives the impression that you are drowning in your clothes. For tall men, that’s often paired with extra ankle and wrist showing from too-short sleeves and pant legs. The time and expense to have a tailor make these changes will easily be worth it.

Tailored Suits Thin Men

Tailored clothing will allow a thin man to look extremely dapper! Courtesy of www.menssuittips.com

2. Heavier Fabrics and Layering

To add more weight to your frame, add more weight to your frame! Flannel, corduroy, and heavier wool suits can build on your natural silhouette and make you larger. Adding layers is another way to appear larger, although it’s important to be strategic for comfort as well as for style. Too many bulky layers and not only will you look unnatural, you’ll feel very warm and uncomfortable as well. Layering up with lighter pieces gives you more airflow and helps you stay cooler while still giving the illusion of added size.

Thin Men Textured Suits

Textured Suits can add perceived width to a thinner man’s frame! Courtesy of www.gq.com

3. Patterns Create Movement

Solid colors have a slimming effect, and therefore aren’t the best choice for a thinner man to reach for. Thin men look better in patterns and have more flexibility than any other body type to try new things, match contrasting patterns, and generally add pizzazz with interesting patterns.

Patterns create movement and make the space they fill seem larger. A patterned suit, for example, will make a thin man look as though the suit takes up more space. When we look at a person wearing a busy pattern, it takes a little bit longer for our brain to explain to our eyes what is happening. That split second of neural communication gives us the impression that the person is larger.

With respect to specific patterns, horizontal stripes will provide your frame with a wider look, and could look particularly good with your shirts. Vertical stripes in general should be avoided, as they will accentuate your slimness further, drawing the observers attention in a vertical direction.

Suit Patterns Thinner Men

Patterns will help thinner men with perceived width! Courtesy of www.suitsupply.com

4. Suit Jackets

When choosing your jackets, it is best to opt for items with padded shoulders. The goal, when dressing up the slimmer man, is to accentuate your perceived width. By having more filled in shoulders, it will help provide you with that ideal and flattering ‘V’ shaped silhouette.

Skinny Lapels will also help to emphasize your proportions, as they will flow well naturally with your body type. 

Double breasted jackets complement the skinny man perfectly, as they will help add width to your ensemble and perceived frame size.

 Thin Men Double Breasted Suit

A double breasted jacket helps flatter a thinner man’s frame! Courtesy of www.theidleman.com

5. Shirts

Contrary to popular opinion, you want to choose shirts that fit you well. Trying to wear baggier shirts to add perceived width is only going to make you look more skinny. Therefore, it is best to stick to fitted shirts, that don’t look too big or sloppy.

6. Pants

Your pants should flatter your body type, and hence slim fit pants will work well. Too tight, however, and you could end up looking like a stick. Additionally, cuffs can help break your silhouette and hence add perceived width to your look!

7.  Accessories That Add Shape

A thinner man has a lot more flexibility in terms of accessories that add shape to his silhouette. While larger men need to stay away from adding more bulk to their frame, a thin man has freedom to and really ought to add contrast to his shape with a larger accessory.

Skinny Ties Help with proportions with thinner men

 Courtesy of www.pinterest.com

A bowtie or puffed pocket square can help make things more interesting and take eyes away from the width of your frame. Proportion is still important and there is a point where an accessory becomes too large, crossing into a clownish overall look. Proportion is also the reason that a thinner man looks much better in a skinny tie. A wide tie will make him look even more thin in comparison, while a skinny tie doesn’t over power him.

To view The Dark Knot’s range of stunning Skinny Silk Ties, please click here.

To view The Dark Knot’s range of exquisite Silk & Linen Pocket Squares, please click here.

Please feel free to view The Dark Knot’s beautiful range of Two Tonal Lapel Flowers & Three Tone Lapel Flowers that are ideal for thin men!

And that’s a wrap for this one! I hope that you have enjoyed reading this as much as I did writing it!

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6 Style Tips For Large Men

Posted by Rishi Chullani on

Kathryn Fassett

Bodies come in lots of shapes and sizes. Looking good in your clothes might feel a bit like a magic act, using misdirection to hide the things about your body that you don’t like. In a way, this is true! Small differences in how you dress can drastically change the way you look.

For large men, one common concern is dressing to appear slimmer. Depending on how a man’s weight is carried, he might prefer to look shorter or taller at the same time. This illusion is easy to achieve by following the tips below. With that said, here is our guide to 6 Style Tips For Large Men!

1. Wear Clothes That Fit You

The first tip is important for anyone, regardless of what “problem area” they’d like to correct. Many people have attempted a slimming effect by squeezing into clothes a size smaller, or to look shorter by wearing pants that are slightly too long. This never helps the problem and only makes it look worse.

The first step to looking your best is to wear clothes that properly fit you. A tailored shirt and trousers will always be more flattering than something purchased off the shelf, particularly for bigger men.

Poorly fitting clothes will bunch, crease, and sag. The lines of your body will be broken up by the bulges of fabric, almost always in the spots you’d like to draw attention away from. Since it’s almost impossible to buy perfectly-fitting clothing off the rack, you’ll need to find a good tailor. Luckily, tailor adjustments and inexpensive and well worth the investment.

Courtesy of www.blanklabel.com

2. Wear Light Weight Fabrics

Heavier fabrics have a tendency to add bulk to your frame. Not only does a lighter fabric give you a more fair silhouette, it can also help you regulate your body temperature. Bigger bodies produce more body heat, which can make heavier fabrics uncomfortable any ways. Overheating can lead to sweat stains, odors, and general crankiness.

If you have previously tried to hide bulk behind thick khakis or heavy jackets, you will be amazed by how much lighter you feel in a fine wool suit.

3. Neckline Proportions

Every part of your neckline, from your shirt’s collar style to the knot you choose for your tie, should be proportional to the rest of your body. Just as a thin man with a smaller head looks like a caricature when he dons a large collar and a wide tie, a large man with a bigger head looks like a clown with a tiny collar and dainty knot.

Larger Man Suit

Courtesy of www.pinterest.com

 A spread collar shirt, wider tie, and a broad knot will make a large man look balanced and natural. When wearing a jacket, the points of the collar should be tucked underneath the jacket.

Proportion is particularly important at the neckline, but all of your accessories should be comparative to your frame size. A bigger man should have a bigger watch face and chunkier cuff links. Bigger items add a sense of authority to a large man, which sends a signal that this is not a “fat” man but a big powerful man instead.

4. Accentuate Height, Minimize Width

When choosing a suit pattern, larger men should concentrate on creating a taller and thinner visual. A pattern with chunky horizontal lines will make you appear wider because it draws the eye from side to side. A light vertical pinstripe has the opposite effect, drawing the eye up and down. Black is a particularly slimming color, and solid colors in general help slim a silhouette. Opt for simple, small patterns to avoid accentuating curves.

Larger man suit

Courtesy of www.gq.com

5. Keep Pockets Empty

When you have a bulky wallet, keys, and a cell phone shoved into your pants pockets, you create big bulky areas that break up the precisely tailored lines of your ensemble. Having lots of items in your pockets also makes the fabric stretch and bunch in other ways, creating a ripple of discord through the whole look. After all, we are all trying to avoid the George Kostanza wallet! Choose a minimalist wallet or money clip and slip your keys and phone into your jacket pockets instead.

6. Grow A Beard

Growing a beard is an excellent hack to make a softer chin instantly look more masculine. A beard hides a double chin and makes a man look stronger. But growing a beard is a commitment, because the secret to looking good with facial hair is keeping it well-groomed. From a short goatee to full lumberjack, a recently trimmed beard shows that you intended to look this way, rather than just not caring enough to keep it neat. A larger man with a beard has even more pressure to keep his facial hair well-groomed because bigger guys fight the stereotype of not caring about their appearance.

large men beard

Courtesy of www.pinterest.com

 Bigger Guys Have More Reason To Dress Well

In addition as being assumed to not care about their appearance, big guys fight other stereotypes such as they are lazy and sloppy. If two men, one larger and one smaller, both wore athletic pants and a t-shirt, people have a tendency to assume one man is going to the gym and that another man was too lazy to put on nicer clothes.

Of course this isn’t a fair stereotype, but it does give bigger guys an added incentive to put thought into the clothes they wear each day. Taking the time to look a little nicer each day fights this stereotype and forces people to look at you differently. No man in a well-fitting suit ever looks lazy.

Remember, the last thing we want is to be dressed like this!

Charles Barkley Suit

Sweetness!

And that's a wrap for this one! I hope that you have enjoyed reading this as much as I did writing it!

If you are a larger & taller man looking for ties, please feel free to check out The Dark Knot's Extra Long Tie Collection!

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A Complete Guide to Men's Winter Coats

Posted by Rishi Chullani on

Kathryn Fassett

Depending on the climate you live in, a winter coat might be a vital part of your wardrobe for five months out of the year, or it might only make an appearance for a chilly week or two. Men’s coats have been a central part of men’s fashion since civilization began. Some of the styles still extremely popular today have long social histories, even coming to be associated with groups of political thought.

Winter coats are expensive. It can be tempting to buy discount coats, but buyer beware. The reason that coats are so expensive is that a great deal of heavy material goes into making them. 

For the best investment, buy a coat in an easy-to-coordinate color such as navy, black, or gray. These options will give you the best range of ensembles to wear under it, helping you get the most use that you can. With that said, here is our complete guide to men's winter coats!

Duffel

Duffel coats take their name from the town in Belgium where the coarse wool material that they are made from was first made. Duffel coats are easy to spot, with large hoods and wooden toggles fastened to leather loops. These coats date back to the early 19th century and are still popular today, although modern styles are made with a softer material. 

Duffel Coat

Courtesy of Pinterest

Warm Rating

Made from wool and with generous hoods, duffel coats are will keep you warm on chilly days. The versatility of the duffel coat makes it easy to pair it with casual wear or more formal attire.

Wet Rating

Wool is not a great fabric to keep you dry. In fact, wool is fairly absorbent, so don’t expect a duffel coat to offer much protection from the elements.

Trench Coat

Like many other styles of men’s coats, the trench coat was originally designed to for military purposes. The trench coat was designed to help keep soldiers dry in the wet trenches. Trench coats are designed to be good cover for winter wear, to repel water, and to stay lightweight and allow movement. 

Trench Coat

Courtesy of Pinterest

Warm Rating

Trench coats were not designed for warmth, but rather to be worn underneath something heavier in the more cold months. Their lightweight feel make them ideal for spring wear as well.

Wet Rating

Trench coats are great for the rain because the pressed material repels water and help you stay dry underneath.

Overcoat

Overcoats were once the most formal sort of coat a man could wear. Overtime, the overcoat evolved to something more basic that can be paired with formal wear and informal wear alike. Although the overcoat is constantly being “reinvented,” the classic look of an overcoat doesn’t really change from season to season.

Men's Overcoat

Courtesy of Pinterest

Warm Rating

With so many different takes on the overcoat from designer to designer, it’s likely that you can find overcoats made from a wide variety of materials. However, the traditional overcoat is made from fine wool.

Wet Rating

The fine wool of a well-made overcoat will keep you dry in persistent rain. Check individual overcoat styles to make sure they are constructed from high quality wool.

Parka

A parka is a thick coat stuffed with down, usually with an attached, fur-lined hood. Parkas are long and provide a great deal of protection in cold climates. This style of coat comes from the Inuit living in the Arctic, who created them from warm animal furs and skins. The Inuits used to coat their parkas, called anoraks, with fish oil to help protect the wearer from rain and mud.

Parka

Courtesy of Pinterest

Warm Rating

Parkas are very warm, due to the many layers of down or other stuffing inside. A parka will be sufficient by itself for most weather, and too heavy for mild days.

Wet Rating

Parkas work well to repel water, even though you won’t have to rub it down with fish oil every week. Today’s parkas are simply made from a water resistant material.

Pea Coat

The pea coat has nautical origins, designed to protect the wearer from the wind and sea spray aboard a naval vessel. Pea coats are versatile enough to wear to a formal occasion, or under a pair of jeans and a sweater to something more casual. Every man should have a pea coat made from heavy duty wool as a staple of their closet.  

Pea Coat

Courtesy of Pinterest

Warm Rating

Pea coats are made from heavy duty wool, so they are very warm. However, they can easily accommodate a suit jacket underneath, so in the coldest weather simply add another garment.

Wet Rating

Dense wool makes a pea coat resistant to water. If you need to trust some one on which garment will keep you dry, a sailor seems like a good choice of authority.

Below is an incredibly helpful infographic pertaining to coats by Real Men Real Style.

Men's Coat Infographic

And that's a wrap for this one! I hope that you have enjoyed reading this article as much as I did writing it!

 

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