In articles past, I have discussed the fundamentals of buying a bespoke suit: Snug fit around your shoulders, a suit jacket that is tapered around your waist, the drop between chest measurements and your waist, the rise of your pants, the jacket length of your sleeves and some more functional and stylistic elements such as jacket vents and the lining of your suit jacket.
Sure, all of the above are important. Extremely important. But so are several more nuanced features that I would like to discuss in more detail today:
1. Suit Jacket Buttons – While suit jackets in recent memory gave way to the 3-button trend, recent trends have pointed towards a 2-button suit jacket. What is important is that your 2-button jacket maintains that elusive deep V-shape with the lapels that is a hallmark of an elegantly crafted bespoke tailor suit. Budget friendly retailers that claim to do ‘alterations’ or offer more of a ‘tailored service’ may offer a 2-button jacket option where the buttons are placed unnecessarily high, thereby detracting from that oh so crucial V-shape. Don’t let this detail slide.
2. Jacket Lapel Width – It is no coincidence that the average width of neckties and jacket lapel widths have been narrowing at the same time. As men have chosen to embrace narrower jacket lapels, so have they chosen narrower ties. This doesn’t mean we all need to adopt the Brooklyn hipster look and strut ultra thin lapels with ultra skinny ties. It also doesn’t mean you have to embrace the latest trend. But there should be uniformity. If you like skinny ties, shelve the wider lapel jacket for now. Unless you’re Chuck Norris. Then you can dress however you like.
3. Higher armholes – armholes are an important but sometimes overlooked feature by a novice bespoke suit buyer. The lower your armhole, the more your jacket will sway when you raise your arms. Hence, to preserve the look of a well fitted suit, armholes should be constructed slightly higher.
4. Functional Buttons – If given the option, which you should be, opt for functional buttons. They are a hallmark of a bespoke suit. And they let the fact that the suit is customized speak for itself!
And that's a wrap for this one! I hope that you have enjoyed reading this as much as I have had writing it!